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Old 07-07-2011, 02:59 PM   #1
Big Buford
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Default Red Max Pro floor polish

Going to do the front cap and lower plastic molding around the rig this weekend. Will report back on results. Many have used with great results

Restoring the finish of an older motorhome using Red Max Pro:

Materials:
-Red Max Pro (Step 3) Low Maintenance Floor Finish (available at Lowes)
-Bar Keeper’s Friend (powdered)
-TSP (powdered)
-3M scrubbies (white)
-White Microfiber rags
-Latex gloves



Preparing the surface is the most important part, since anything left on the surface will be sealed under the Red Max Pro acrylic coating. Start by washing your motorhome as you normally would, making sure to include the roof, rinsing well from the top down.

Now, you want to remove any and all stains, soiling, oxidation, and chalkiness from the surface of the motorhome. Dip a white 3M scrubbie into water and then sprinkle Bar Keeper’s Friend on it. Scrub the surface of the motorhome, rinsing the scrubbie and re-applying the BKF often. Do small areas at a time, rinsing well with water and a sponge as you go. I used a "flow-thru" brush with a hose to rinse the BKF thoroughly as I went.

The next step is to make sure that there is absolutely no remaining wax on the motorhome, since wax can cause the Red Max to peel. Mix up a bucket of TSP (1/2 cup) in water (2 gal), and wash the entire motorhome. You can use a carwash brush, a sponge, a pressure washer…anything you would normally use. Rinse well, and let the motorhome dry completely. You should be left with a clean and smooth (although dull) surface. Congrats, the prep-work is now complete!


Now for the easy part. Pour some Red Max Pro (RMP) into a shallow container (a pie pan works well). Fold a microfiber rag to about hand-sized, dip into the RMP (trust me, use gloves!), and squeeze out the excess. How much/how wet? You want it more than damp, but less than dripping. Now simply wipe down the surface of the motorhome with the wet rag. Don’t try to over-apply; just wet the surface (imagine wiping a layer of dust off with a wet rag). It really doesn’t matter whether you wipe horizontally, vertically, or in circles; RMP is very thin/watery and you are just trying to “wet” the surface. Work your way all the way around the motorhome. RMP will dry quickly; before you’ve gone all the way around, it will be dry and you can immediately start on the next coat.

That first coat will likely look really bad; streaky, shiny in some places, dull in others…don’t panic. Each additional coat will even it out and start to build up a deep layer of shine. By coat 3, you will be grinning ear to ear. And coat 4 will be the icing on the cake. Not only will your RV shine like it hasn’t shined in years, it will be a deeper color as well. Even old. faded, cracked graphics will have a new lease on life! All for about $30!

Things (I learned) to keep in mind:

-Don’t use colored microfiber rags unless they have been laundered, as the color may bleed.

-Be careful around window frames, locks, latches, etc., as the RMP will have a tendency to gather and cause runs. Watch for runs and give them a quick wipe before they start to “set up”.

-Some older, deteriorated graphics may “bleed” color onto the rag. If you noticed any bleeding during the BKF or TSP stage, then do a quick single coat of RMP across the graphics first, which will seal them up. Then go ahead and apply the RMP on the rest of the coach (including graphics) as per the tutorial.

-After each coat, go around and open/operate all hatches, locks, catches, etc. The acrylic (RMP) coating will sort of “glue” them closed.

-You can also do the window frames and other painted metal areas; in fact, I did my entire Class C cab since, like the rest of my RV, it was also very faded and dull. Came out fantastic!
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Old 07-07-2011, 03:02 PM   #2
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Bout 30 bucks for everything. Need to shine up the kitchen and bath floor too.
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:44 PM   #3
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I'll be waiting on some before and after photos on this BB. My front cap and tailgate need some TLC.
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Old 07-08-2011, 11:40 PM   #4
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Geter done BB then I wanna know how it takes UV and how it holds up to washing.
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Old 07-08-2011, 11:59 PM   #5
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I want to see too
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Old 07-09-2011, 12:07 AM   #6
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Quote:
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. -Latex gloves


.
!

Last edited by CHAIN_DOGG; 07-09-2011 at 12:12 AM.
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Old 07-09-2011, 12:09 AM   #7
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I want to see too
Think he said he was going to write a story for ToyHaulerAdventure
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Old 07-09-2011, 12:28 AM   #8
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sounds like to much work, I'd just buy a new trailer.
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Old 07-09-2011, 12:30 AM   #9
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sounds like to much work, I'd just buy a new trailer.
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Old 07-09-2011, 01:19 AM   #10
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Turned out bitchin ! Do buy a throw away pie plate to put the wax in. Vickis cooking pot lid has a nice shiney coat on it now

Prob best to not do in direct sunlight either. Can see where some of it dried too fast. Put last coat on in the shade shines better than new. Very easy to do. Small learning curve on the amount you need to wet the rag your using to apply. Longest report of someone doing this is 3 years, no peeling or yellowing.

I was tired of messing with the cap, wax would last a couple months at best. Can use a stripper to take it off if ever needed.

Sum bitch looks sharpe
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